Textile Weaving

Preparation

• Calculating setts

• Yarns pass through the shafts and breast beams

• Tie a knot at the end of each group & adjust the wrap tension even

• Ring passes through the lam

• Rings are connected to the shafts

a capture of the cotton mercerized yarn

Calculating setts is necessary. The basic information for the calculation is how many yarns per centimeter. For our own cotton mercerized yarn is 24 threads per cm in warp.

Usage Prediction calculation involved:

- 12 samples

- 2cm edge

- 10% shinkage

- extra usage

the process of preparation before yarns pass through the shafts and breast beams

During passing yarns through the shafts, we faced a problem which was following the wrong order. Thus, the pattern is finally bias to a side like the above picture.

Tie a knot at the end of each group and try to make the knots in the same distance to the reed.

Adjusting the wrap tension even from loose pant to tight pant, in the meanwhile, feeling the tension by hands.

In this process, we need to play more attention and be patient to feel it again and again to make sure the even tension and prevent the threads breaking during weaving.

This is the final process of preparation the whole loom, ring passes through the lam.

The difficulty of this step would be fatigue as sitting inside the

loom and must be careful since the rings are connected to the shafts.

Inspiration of own three “TEXTURE” samples

• Inspired from Chinese Painting

• Artists use ink or water-based colour on paper or silk to create

traditional tableaus, most often depicting landscapes with plants

• Present the objects from paintings by texture in weaving fabrics

• Three significant plants in Chinese paintings: Plum blossom, Willow tree

and Peony

Knots on the surface are picked by hand randomly to present the plum blossom.

White cone: Polyester

Red cone: Effect yarn with random knots

As the plum flowering in late winter and early spring is highly regarded as a seasonal symbol, they are usually matched with snow. The white polyester yarn I chose is a thick yarn with puffy surface to present the snowy scenario with red knotted yarns.

Left green cone: Effect yarn with white yarn blended

Middle green cone: 100% cotton

Right white cone: Effect yarn with short staple surface

The reasons why there are two different green colour yarns to present the willow tree is able to enrich the volume of tree in visual and indicate the light and shadow in the meanwhile. Moreover, this combination is completely revealed the sight and texture of the willow trees. On the other hand, the white effect yarn is matched with the characteristic of willow tree as the short staple fibre surface.

Picking the floats by hand in different length.

Cut the floats in the middle by a pair of scissors after weaving some of parts. Adjust the lengths of floating yarns regularly during picking the yarns each time.

White floating on surface is picked by hand randomly.

Blue and purple yarns on the surface is picked by hand randomly as well.

Left white cone: Effect yarn in shiny white colour

Middle navy-blue cone: Polyester with shiny surface

Right purple cone: Camira yarns in harper purple

The image of peony in China is rich and honor. The flowers in blue or purple colour are much more invaluable and rare. That is why this colour combination in shiny appearance chosen for the sample.

Blue and purple yarn float picked by hand in different length on top

and merger into ground white layer respectively.

White floating in the red circles is picked

by hand randomly.

Blue and purple yarns on the surface is

picked by hand randomly as well.

After stitching variation, the pleats have been stitched together to give a smocked effect.

This laser cut picture is inspired by

the fabric material, wool.

The

most technical part of laser cut is setting the optimal degree of speed and

power. These two factors are going to be

affected by the properties of yarn material and the thickness of fabric.

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The picture was preferred with edging effect.

First of all, a weaker setting was applied with 85.0 Speed and 18 Power. However, the sheep picture was not clear enough. Therefore, the weaker setting was applied again, the wool fabric was done by laser cut in same setting twice totally.

The reason why does not adjust to a stronger setting for second time laser cut is preventing the setting will be too high to pass through the fabric and make the edging effect fail.

Finally, this laser cut for wool fabric was successful to end with a perfect picture sheep picture on it.

Suggestion for improvement:

A strong setting in Speed and Power is able to apply on wool fabric directly. (Strong setting means lower speed with bigger power)

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This cotton fabric is preferred to make a 3D flower on it. Hence, the flower is inspired by the above outline.

The first version of the flower picture is too complicated with too much cutting lines on the tips.

As a result, there are lots of loosening yarns at that locations, please refer to

the above picture:.

It is because the yarn material is cotton which does not has melting property after burning. They will be just fading out after laser cut. Therefore, a simplified picture was created.

After that, the picture was tested will laser cut in 20.0 Speed and 60 Power in a red and white fabric. It is also a 100% cotton fabric in same structure with the yellow. Yet, this setting is not strong enough to cut outline totally.

As a result, the setting turned to be stronger with

12.0 Speed and 85 Power and is capable to cut the outline in once.

For the final attachment of 3D effect, the leaf

centers were stitched by French knots with golden yarn.

In short, this laser cut for cotton fabric was quite successful to end with a perfect 3D effect on the flowers.

However, there is a small mistake for the material selection. It is because the loosening cotton edges affected the detailed hand stitching final attachment. The emergency solution is gluing the edges to prevent keeping loosening out.

Suggestion for improvement:

Polyester material with melting property is a more suitable selection for these kinds of final attachment.